A market every day of the week within half an hour, a Saturday night market in our own village, two Bib Gourmand restaurants in Daglan and Carsac, and the walnut, truffle and foie gras producers who make the Périgord taste of itself.
Checked 11 September 2026. Hours and prices change, so follow the links to the official sites before you set off. Distances are from Sol du Mazel.
Most evenings we eat under the abri with something from the market. This page is for the other evenings. Opening days change with the season, and small restaurants close for a fortnight without warning, so ring first in July and August.
Markets, day by day
| Day | Where | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Sunday | Daglan, Saint-Cyprien, Cazals | Daglan is five minutes away and runs all year. Saint-Cyprien has 150 stalls or more in summer. |
| Tuesday | Cénac, Le Bugue | Cénac runs 8 am to 1 pm. |
| Wednesday | Sarlat | The smaller of Sarlat's two markets. |
| Thursday | Domme | On the Place de la Halle, 8 am to 1 pm. |
| Saturday | Sarlat, Belvès, Le Bugue, Villefranche-du-Périgord, Gourdon | Sarlat's big one, with clothes and crafts as well as food. Belvès is on the Place d'Armes. |
| Saturday evening | Saint-Pompon | Our village night market, every Saturday from early July to late August, from 7 pm on the school car park. Bring your own cutlery and plates. |
Night markets
The best evenings of a Dordogne summer cost almost nothing. From early July to late August most villages hold a marché gourmand nocturne once a week: producers and caterers cook their own food at stalls, you buy a plate here and a plate there, duck, sarladaise potatoes, cabécou, walnut cake, a jug of Bergerac, and everyone eats together at long tables under the trees or the market hall, usually with a band. Children run about. Nobody minds.
| Evening | Where | 2026 dates and notes |
|---|---|---|
| Monday | Bois d'Enveaux farm shop, Veyrines-de-Domme | 29 June to 31 August, from 7 pm, on the farm's covered terrace. About 10 km. |
| Tuesday | Daglan | July and August, the Marché des Producteurs de Pays. Bring cutlery. 2026 dates not published when we checked, ask at the Mairie. 5 km. |
| Tuesday | Villefranche-du-Périgord | Summer Tuesdays from 6.30 pm under the covered market hall. Bring cutlery. 15 km. |
| Tuesday | Groléjac | 7 July to 28 August, from 7 pm, with music every week. 20 km. |
| Wednesday | Belvès | 1 July to 19 August, from 7 pm under the medieval halle on the Place d'Armes, with music and dancing. The one we go to most. 10 km. |
| Thursday | Castelnaud-la-Chapelle | July and August on the town hall square, with musicians and lanterns and a best-cabécou contest. 2026 dates not published when we checked. 12 km. |
| Thursday | Saint-Cyprien | 2 July to 3 September, 7 pm to 11 pm, Place Sadouillet-Perrin, big tables and music. 25 km. |
| Friday | Saint-Cybranet | 3 July to 28 August, from 6.30 pm by the salle des fêtes, food trucks and concerts. 7 km. |
| Friday | Carsac-Aillac | 3 July to 28 August, from 7 pm by Aillac church, live music. 25 km. |
| Friday | Le Buisson-de-Cadouin | 3 July to 28 August, from 7.30 pm in front of the cinema, with a band. 25 km. |
| Saturday | Saint-Pompon | 5 July to 23 August, food from 7 pm on the school car park. Bring cutlery. Our own village, a walk home under the stars. |
| Sunday | Vézac, Trait d'Union | 12 July to 23 August, 7 pm to 11 pm. 14 km. |
Domme, Cénac, La Roque-Gageac and Vitrac hold morning markets and had no weekly evening market listed for 2026. Beynac held a one-off evening market in September, Monpazier two in late July and August, and Sarlat's Thursday night market is crafts and shopping rather than food. For the full calendar see the Périgord Noir Vallée Dordogne tourist office or Dordogne Périgord Tourisme.
Belvès night market
Wednesday evenings under the medieval halle, 1 July to 19 August 2026, from 7 pm, with music and dancing.
Covered, so it runs in the rain. Be there by 5.30 for a seat under the roof.
Saint-Pompon night market
Saturday evenings on the school car park, 5 July to 23 August 2026, food from 7 pm. Bring your own plates and cutlery.
Walk down from the house and walk back under the stars.
Saint-Cybranet night market
Friday evenings by the salle des fêtes, 3 July to 28 August 2026, from 6.30 pm, with food trucks and concerts.
The nearest Friday one.
Daglan producers' night market
Tuesday evenings in July and August, farm produce cooked on the spot. Bring cutlery.
Five minutes away. Check the dates with the Mairie.
Castelnaud night market
Thursday evenings on the town hall square in July and August, with musicians, lanterns and a best-cabécou contest.
Eat below the castle.
Bois d'Enveaux farm night market
Monday evenings on the farm shop's covered terrace at Veyrines-de-Domme, 29 June to 31 August 2026, from 7 pm.
The Monday one, and under cover.
Vézac night market
Sunday evenings at the Trait d'Union, 12 July to 23 August 2026, 7 pm to 11 pm.
The Sunday one, near Marqueyssac.
In the village and five minutes away
La Forge, Saint-Pompon
Market-menu lunches and a bistro menu in the evening in the old forge, with organic wines and a children's menu. Small room, so book. Note it closes for its own holiday from mid July to late August.
Walkable from the house, an eighteen-minute stroll down the lane.
Oscar's Pub, Saint-Pompon
Pub, bar and restaurant on the square with burgers, pasta and Roman-style pinsa pizzas, a pool table and live music.
The casual pizza night without driving. Evenings can be lively.
Ferme-Auberge du Roc, Saint-Pompon
A working duck and goose farm on the Besse road serving its own foie gras, confit and cassoulet, with a farm shop. Easter to the end of September; by reservation out of season.
Eat the farm's own produce in the farm's own yard.
La Cantine by Fabrice Le Chef, Daglan
Home-made south-west cooking served canteen-style on benches, with a big bright room and two terraces. Burgers and steak-frites too.
Informal, generous, and the shaded terrace fills with families.
Le Petit Paris, Daglan
A Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2005 in a former tobacco bar, chef Sylvain Guilbot, weekly-changing menus and a famous Grand Marnier soufflé. Closed Monday and Tuesday; Sunday lunch only.
The special night out. Big terrace on the square. Book.
Within twenty minutes
Les Terrasses du Céou, Saint-Cybranet
Bar, tabac and restaurant by the Céou river with traditional dishes and Italian specialities, a weekday menu of the day and a shaded terrace. Open all year.
Cheap, quiet and welcomes families.
L'Éole, Saint-Cybranet
Restaurant and pizzeria on the Plaine de l'Albarède with home-made pizzas and Périgord dishes, eat in or take away. April to September.
The nearest proper pizzeria with table service.
Ferme-Auberge de Montalieu-Haut, Saint-Cybranet
A century-old family farm between Castelnaud and Daglan serving its own produce, by reservation only.
A children's menu, a terrace and twelve hectares of woodland to walk off lunch.
Le Saint-Martial, Saint-Martial-de-Nabirat
A Michelin-listed restaurant run by Valérie and Jean-Marc Réal for over twenty years, modern cooking from seasonal produce, a fireplace and a terrace.
The other treat meal, ten minutes the quiet way.
La Terrasse de Moncalou, Florimont-Gaumier
A bistro among the Domme vineyards opposite the Moncalou tower: tapas, burgers, grills, vegetarian and vegan dishes. Thursday to Saturday evenings and Sunday lunch.
Climb the tower, then eat outside.
Le Causse, Campagnac-lès-Quercy
The village bar and restaurant, traditional French cooking from fresh local produce.
A simple, inexpensive stop.
Pizza Lolo, Cénac
Takeaway pizzas on home-made dough, in business over fifteen years. Tuesday to Saturday, lunch and evening.
Pick up on the way back from the river for a night in under the abri. Book at weekends.
La Traverse, Chez les Filles, Cénac
Hotel-restaurant in the village centre with a monthly-changing menu of local produce, the top-rated table in Cénac.
Reliable traditional food on market day.
La Guinguette du Pont de Cénac
A riverside guinguette by the bridge with a terrace, simple dishes and takeaway.
Eat by the water after a canoe trip. Basic, and lovely.
Domme, Castelnaud and La Roque-Gageac
Cabanoix et Châtaigne, Domme
Market cooking with Périgord foie gras a speciality, in a small room that doubles as an épicerie and gallery. Thursday to Monday.
A treat lunch after walking the ramparts. Book.
L'Esplanade, Domme
Pascal Bouland's hotel-restaurant since 1989, a terrace under lime trees on the cliff edge. April to early November, closed Monday and Tuesday.
The view over the valley from the table.
Pizzeria des Templiers, Domme
The pizzeria at the town gate on the Promenade des Remparts.
The family standby in Domme.
Des Idées à la Noix, Domme
Crêperie, tea room and ice-cream shop in the heart of the bastide, with salads and tarts.
Crêpes and ice cream on a misted terrace on a hot afternoon.
Le Tournepique, Castelnaud
A riverside restaurant below the castle known for pan-fried fish and seafood in the Basque style, plus Périgord classics.
A terrace on the Dordogne at the foot of the castle.
La Plume d'Oie, Castelnaud
Run by the Jacquemin family for fifteen years: foie gras, honeyed duck breast, walnut tart, with a shaded terrace and a castle view.
A children's menu and a weekday lunch menu.
The crêperie at Château de Castelnaud
A taverne-crêperie inside the castle grounds, open from noon every day the castle is open.
Lunch between the trebuchet firings.
La Belle Étoile, La Roque-Gageac
Four generations of the Ongaro family, a Michelin Bib Gourmand, refined seasonal cooking on the riverfront.
Lunch after a gabarre trip. Book.
Les Terrasses de La Roque, La Roque-Gageac
Home cooking facing the river: bagels, salads, tartares and Périgord dishes. No reservation needed.
Children and dogs welcome, shaded terrace, parking.
Boulangerie Brasserie du Roc, La Roque-Gageac
A bakery and brasserie with terraces above the river, generous pizzas.
The cheap, easy lunch with the best view in the village.
Soleil Plage, Vitrac
The restaurant, pizzeria and snack bar on the riverside campsite, open to everyone, with a beach and canoe hire on site.
A children's menu and sand between the courses.
Belvès, Salviac and the Lot side
Le Troglo, Belvès
A bar-brasserie on the Place d'Armes: salads, burgers with home-made chips, grills, regional dishes and artisan ice cream.
Twenty-six terrace seats facing the old market hall. Made for families.
Le Belvédère, Belvès
Hotel-restaurant, chef Romuald Platrier, refined cooking with house-made foie gras, smoked salmon and bread.
The smarter option in Belvès.
Chez les Filles, L'Auberge du Quercy, Salviac
Bistro cooking from the Wednesday market on a sunny terrace by the church, snacks all afternoon in summer.
Dogs and children welcome.
Auberge de la Place, Cazals
South-west cooking at moderate prices on the square: couscous, cassoulet, paella.
After the lake at Cazals.
Le Troglo and the Belvès Saturday market
Belvès market fills the Place d'Armes on Saturday mornings, with a Wednesday evening market in July and August.
Shop, then sit on the terrace.
Sarlat
La Couleuvrine, Sarlat
A restaurant in a tower of the old town walls with a good-value lunch menu.
Market-day lunch.
Le Grand Bleu, Sarlat
Maxime Lebrun's Michelin-starred restaurant.
For the anniversary dinner. Check the current status and book weeks ahead.
Ô Moulin, Carsac-Aillac
A Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide, modern cooking in an old mill. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
On the way to the Jardins d'Eau.
Producers to visit
Délices de Turnac, Domme
Foie gras and confit producer with free tastings, open daily April to September.
Ten minutes away and generous with samples.
Vidal Foie Gras, Cénac
Producer and shop in the Pech Mercier trading estate.
The one to visit on Cénac market day.
Maison Lembert, Beynac
Producing since 1940, with an auberge open April to All Saints and a shop.
Gold medals in 2026.
Distillerie La Salamandre, Temniac
Fruit liqueurs and eaux-de-vie two kilometres north of Sarlat, with a free self-guided tour on weekdays.
Walnut liqueur to take home.
Domaine de la Vitrolle, Limeuil
Eight hectares of Périgord IGP vines above the meeting of the Dordogne and the Vézère.
Tastings with a view.
“Hours in the sunny gazebo, one eye on the family, a good novel and a glass of something from the market.”
A Sol du Mazel guest
One festival
The Rencontres Cinéma de Gindou, in the Lot about twenty minutes away, has run every August since the 1980s. The 2026 edition is 15 to 22 August, with free evening screenings under the stars at the Cinéma de Verdure and daytime films at L'Arsénic. Details at gindoucinema.org.
Questions we are asked
- Which day is Sarlat market?
- Wednesday and Saturday mornings, from about 8.30 am to 1 pm. Saturday is the larger market. In winter there is a truffle market from December to mid March.
- Is there a market in Saint-Pompon?
- A Saturday night market runs every Saturday from 5 July to 23 August 2026 on the school car park, from 7 pm. Bring your own plates and cutlery. The nearest morning markets are Daglan on Sunday and Domme on Thursday.
- What is a marché gourmand nocturne?
- A summer evening food market held once a week in July and August by most villages in the Périgord Noir. Producers cook their own food at stalls, you buy a dish from each and eat at long shared tables, usually with live music. Bring your own plates, cutlery and glasses, arrive early for a seat, and bring cash. Near Sol du Mazel there is one every evening of the week: Belvès on Wednesday and Saint-Pompon on Saturday are the two we recommend.
- Are there good restaurants near Sol du Mazel?
- Yes. Le Petit Paris in Daglan (+33 5 53 28 41 10) holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and is eight minutes away. La Forge in Saint-Pompon (+33 5 53 28 89 09) is walkable. Le Saint-Martial, Cabanoix et Châtaigne in Domme, La Belle Étoile at La Roque-Gageac and Ô Moulin at Carsac are all listed by Michelin and within half an hour.
- Where can we get a takeaway pizza near Sol du Mazel?
- Oscar's Pub in Saint-Pompon does pinsa pizzas, L'Éole at Saint-Cybranet is the nearest pizzeria with table service, and Pizza Lolo in Cénac (+33 6 81 39 60 43) is the takeaway, Tuesday to Saturday.